Azulejos and Ancients

  

NO! Your eyes do not deceive you—Bryn and I have become part of an ancient tile wall . . . I apologize in advance, as this post is long and a little instructional, but….

We have been so enamored of the bazillions of tiles all over Lisbon (and apparently all over the country) on walls of buildings, homes, shops, train stations, churches—you name it. So, this morning we ended up at the National Tile Museum. It was a fascinating trip through the history of the azulejos (tiles) of Portugal.

“The azulejo is an  identity art of Portugal. Its uninterrupted use throughout the past six centuries differs from how it was used and perceived by other countries, asserting a Portuguese taste….” In the early 15th century, the Islamic culture was the first influence on the azulejo, clay ceramic painted tiles, creating designs of Islamic cultural and religious significance. Islamic patterns of knots and geometric shapes are present everywhere, still today. The tiles below are dated from around 1500.

Throughout the 16th century, these Islamic patterns were gradually influenced and then replaced by more European patterns of leaves, flowers and animals, often signifying resurrection. The original Moorish technique was apparently too time consuming for the needs of the Portuguese who wanted the alujelos everywhere, and so the Portuguese developed their own, apparently more adapted to mass production techniques.

The  first orders for Portuguese azulejos came from the church, and churches all over Portugal began replacing tapestries and other cloths used for alter boards and church walls with the tiles. Images of every saint imaginable, the Virgin Mother, baby Jesus, crucified Jesus, Jesus washing feet, Jesus doing everything, monks, bishops and priests galore, began appearing throughout the country.

In the 17th and early 18th century, great Dutch artists were commissioned to paint tiles, bringing with them the blue upon white technique that made me think of Delft porcelain and ceramic dinnerware found in the Netherlands. It was this influence that inspired the huge mural-like azulejo story-telling panels of battles, historic events and religious miracles (like the one of St. Lucia holding her eyeballs.) There was even a 12 foot long panorama of all of Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake.

The 20th and now the 21st century are having their influences as well, with more abstract designs and way different color combinations and themes. And, hallelujah! The arrival of female azulejo artists that are changing the themes altogether.

This afternoon, we walked up through the old Alfama neighborhood to the top of the hill occupied by the Moorish Castle of St. Jorge. The hilltop’s first known community (artifacts are in the museum on site) lived there beginning around 137 B.C. In the 1100’s the Moors appeared and built a huge fort adjacent to whatever community was thriving there at the time. Of course, the site was perfect for defending against any invading marauders coming up from below. 

Much of the original structure remains, much has been restored. The stone stairways throughout the ruins are absolutely brutal—we thought those ancients were short people, but the rise of their stairs was like 2 feet. You practically had to sit on your butt and scoot down the stairs to prevent yourself from flying headlong onto the cobblestones below. Imagine doing it in full armor.

Tomorrow we take the train up to Porto where we will hang out for two days. Then, its on to the path of the Camino de Santiago. We are ready to hit the trail, for sure.