A Sunday to Remember

We're just emerging from a bit of a forced cyber silence as we've been without internet access for the last 48 hours. It's never entirely clear here why things work--or don't work. The power goes out without explanation, your matatu will survive miles of ruts and potholes and boulders only to break down when it hits tarmac, one minute the water heater spews out water so hot it will scald you, the next minute: ice. We had a big storm here on Saturday night--huge gusty winds and sheets of rain blowing in from the Rift--but Safaricom went down way earlier when the sky was blue and clear. You just learn not to ask too many questions . . .

Anyway, Sunday was 'Cultural Sunday' at the African Inland Church here on Kijabe station. The 3-1/2 hour long church service notwithstanding, (at home we go to a good Presbyterian church where the pastor is allowed only 30 minutes for his sermon so everyone can get home in time to watch football ) it was fascinating. Various cultural groups that live around Kijabe and attend the church here were represented. Kikuyu, Somali, Akamba, Maasai and Turkana. Each group paraded down the aisle in traditional dress and then performed traditional song/dance combinations.

Of particular note were the Maasai--the men were dressed in their typical Maasai moran (warrior) garb and performed their traditional leaping dance (it is no wonder the NBA wants to recruit the Maasai . . . )

The Turkana--the Turkana people come from harsh, arid far northern Kenya, from the region around Lake Turkana. They are from the same language group as the Maasai and have a similar culture--nomadic cattle herders who have resisted much western/modern influence and still live traditionally in thatch huts. After the service, two older Turkana women snatched Oma's hands--much to Oma's great surprise--and began dancing with her on the lawn. It seems the older women here are quick to recognize, and honor, other older women.

The Somalis--as everyone knows, Somalia is in dire straights and since it shares Kenya's northeastern border, Kenya has seen a huge influx of Somali immigrants and refugees. As everyone also knows, much of Somalia is beholden to a particularly fanatical brand of Islam which requires death for any Somali who converts to Christianity. So . . . a group of Somalis dancing in a Christian church is a pretty unusual sight; a Somali man delivering a Christian sermon--which also occurred on Sunday--is even more unusual. (The whole scenario was more than intriguing, following on the heels of the bomb that killed 75 people in Kampala, Uganda last week. There has been an unconfirmed rumor that Al-Shabbab--the Somali arm of Al-Qaeda and the group responsible for Kampala's bombing--has made threats against Kijabe hospital because of the number of Somali's taken care of here. Which, of course, is idiotic since Kijabe hospital is a private hospital and everyone who comes here knows it is 'Christian.' If the Somalis don't want to be 'influenced,' they are free to seek care in a government hospital.)

But, no worries! Goat was roasting on several fire pits on the church lawn after the service and a wonderful time was had by all!

Photos: Turkana dancer; thank goodness for Safaricom; Maasai dancer; Turkana woman; Turkana dancing with Oma; Somali singer; Turkana woman waiting for nyama choma (roasted goat.)